Zig Zag – Buffalo Bay, South Africa

I haven’t been particularly busy but somehow my days have just eluded me. As they do when you are in South Africa. Although its been over a month, I haven’t made it more than 700 km but if I am to take my time anywhere, this is the place. So where did I leave off? Wilderness. Right then.

I really just chilled out chilling by the fire, shooting pool, playing poi and rhythm (I was quickly corrected that they were not devil sticks) sticks. Matt, the guy from Calgary who is riding a bike through SA, rocked up but other than that, Fairy Knowe hostel was deserted. It is almost winter here so things have slowed down almost to a halt. The backpackers hostels are virtually empty so I have lots of space and plenty of personal attention from the staff.

I hiked and canoed one day resulting in a killer shoulder ache. I was thinking out loud about how nice it would be to have a massage and Etienne asked what time I would like it. Less than two hours later, Bonita was kneading my fatigued body with her magic fingers. I floated away feeling energised yet relaxed. Etienne served up some potent carrot juice called Mampoer which reminded me much of my Absinthe days. Needless to say, I did not develop a taste for the serum vowing not to ingest even one more drop.

Lara and Anna showed up the next day then we were off after a scrumptious breakfast of fruit, yogurt, muesli and muffins. We drove about an hour to Knysna where we ate a late lunch of Moroccan curry chicken before heading to Wildside Backpackers. Quite out of the way in Buffalo Bay, this place is situated on a serene beachfront. Again, we were pretty much the only guests, so we got to know the staff pretty well.

Went for a walk along the quiet soft sand beach with the waves lapping at my toes. The water just licks the seashore leaving exotic shells in its wake. The sun set over the mountains lit up by the haze of moisture. The pink clouds stretched from East to West forming mystical shapes in the sky. The thick plump leaves on the cabbage like plants look almost frosted because of the cottony veil they are encased in. I wandered over to a fishing competition where they were fawning over 2 huge prize winning fish gleaming in the sun.

We dined homestyle roast chicken dinner and apple crumble as well as Amos`s Shaqshuka with homemade olive garlic bread cooked over fire. Next we ventured into town for a night out where I bumped into a few old (but not so memorable) acquaintances while we played pool to the techno trance music. I liked the atmosphere and it seemed like a local sort of hangout where everyone knew everyone else.

It`s getting chilly at night so I finally caved buying a hooded jumper and fuzzy hat. As we were pulling out of the parking lot, we were shocked and revolted to see this pervy man beating off in broad daylight! He made a special point of showing us his equipment in action as Lara hopped a curb in the frantic effort to escape the warped sicko`s show. What a Wanker!

Next we stopped by the Phantom Forest where we were put off by the rude snobbish lady at the hotel we were trying to view. We scrambled home to our remote haven where we could finally exhale after such a hectic day in town. Anna and Lara finished the 100 Challenge (you must drink 1 shot a minute for 100 minutes without leaving the table) bolting to the toilet at the end, even before writing their names on the wall of fame. Mom, you`ll be glad to know that I did not participate. I think I have proven my drinking ability many times over and did not feel the need.

After kicking many a boulder in the past few days, I took it as a sign to be gentler with my body for a while. There were two sets of fire poi here so we were able to do a double fire show accompanied by some thumping beats. Garth kicked my butt in pool (and he likes to bet tequila shots) so I thought it a good idea to play with the rhythm sticks. These things are addictive man!

I warmed my toes by the crackling fire with purring kitties curled up on both sides of me as I sipped hot tea. The moon was so bright increasing the luminosity of the stars in the oh so clear night sky. We walked down to the waters edge and splashed around in the incoming tide creating paths of translucent green sparkles.

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